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Main | Short & Sweet: Momofuku Noodle Bar, NYC »
Wednesday
Oct312018

Short & Sweet: The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn

Style: Modern European

Budget: Mid-range, though it would be very easy to spend a lot on wine.

Venue and atmosphere: Stylish, minimalist interior, that still manages to retain a cosy, neighbourhood feel via warm lighting and a lived in feel that probably comes from the many empty wine bottles that line the shelves and windows. 

Service: A little curt and not overly friendly, but my server may have been having a bad day. I got the sense that it is the kind of place where they get to know their regulars.

Food:

When Kate Galassi, former Director of Purchasing and Farm Partnerships at Natoora NYC, told me this is “Hands down one of my favorite places to eat” I knew I had to try it. She also told me “They do a set lunch on the weekends for like $30 bucks that is a TOTAL bargain.” That’s what I went for and it was.

The set lunch is served family style – a plate each of the main event and two sides in the middle to share. 

Hangar steak with anchovy butter and jimmy nardello peppers was deserving of its starring role. Hangar steak is a difficult steak to cook right, but it was spot on – a nice charred edge and faultlessly tender, rare meat in the centre. The charred theme was continued with the roasted peppers, which were sweet and smoky. Parsley added a touch of freshness. I must admit, I couldn’t taste the anchovy butter, but it didn’t matter.

I absolutely loved the little gem salad with crème fraiche, anise hyssop and sesame croutons. Crème fraiche is such a great base for a salad dressing – both light and creamy, with a tart, lemony flavour. And those croutons – tangy, nutty sourdough bread deep-fried to teeth-destroyingly crunchy perfection – I could have eaten a whole bowl. 

German butterball potatoes with pearl onions and thyme rounded out the sides. I liked the buttery sauce they came in, a little like beurre blanc but not as tart, but my friend, Geraldine, thought they were a little plain. "They are an accompaniment, they are not supposed to steal the show" was my response. We agreed to disagree, as we often do.

For dessert, pound cake, tristar strawberries, fennel pollen – the description doesn’t quite do it justice. For me, it tasted like summer in England, strawberries and cream. The juices from the mascerated strawberries had soaked into the moist sponge. Cream with a little lemon zest and black pepper was a nice finishing touch.

If I’d had time, I would have gone back for dinner. The a la carte menu looks great too – a handful of small plates and twice as many large ones, all designed to share.

Drink: This is also a wine bar, so the list is lengthy and far-reaching, covering all the world’s major regions and some more obscure ones too, though the main focus is on French wines. Prices are also wide-ranging, from $50 to $750. There is a decent selection by the glass.

In a nutshell: Simple, yet elegant seasonal cooking in the heart of Williamsburg.

Out of 10: 8

The Four Horsemen: 295 Grand St, Brooklyn, NY 11211, USA; +1 718 599 4900; info@fourhorsemenbk.com

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