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"To eat well in England you should have breakfast three times a day."

Somerset Maugham

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Friday
Aug272010

Something beginning with Z

ZEPHYR  The name (meaning literally 'a light wind') given to various savoury or sweet dishes, served hot or cold, characterized by a light and frothy consistency.

A zephyr is often a souffle. The name is also given to quenelles, mousses or small savoury puddings made in dariole moulds and consisting of pounded lean veal, chicken meat or fish mixed with butter, egg yolks, and either creme fraiche or stiffly whisked egg whites.

In the West Indies zephyrs are balls of vanilla and rum ice cream surrounded by meringue shells and accompanied by a chocolate zabaglione, served as a dessert. Zephyrs may also be small light cakes made of layers of sweet pastry or meringue covered with praline- or coffee-flavoured buttercream, sandwiched together, then iced (frosted) with fondant. 

Larousse Gastronomique. (2001). English ed. London: Hamlyn.

Sunday
Aug152010

Gael Greene on food and sex

"Great food is like great sex. The more you have the more you want."

Gael Greene

Saturday
Aug072010

A.A. Gill on foie gras & daube of beef

"My first course was stunning: a lump of duck foie like a grey hot water bottle floating in a bowl of the richest consomme. It was fantastic. I could feel it peristaltically clogging all my tubes. It had a deeply sensual taste and the texture of slipping into a coma. For the main course, I had daube of beef cheek 'cooked like a grandmother'. God, if anyone had cooked my grandmother like this I'd have visited more often."

Gill, A.A. (2008). Table Talk: Sweet and Sour, Salt and Bitter. London: Phoenix.

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