Search
Food corner

"Cooking, in effect, took part of the work of chewing and digestion and performed it for us outside of the body, using outside sources of energy. Also, since cooking detoxifies many potential sources of food, the new technology cracked open a treasure trove of calories unavailable to other animals. Freed from the necessity of spending our days gathering large quantities of raw food and then chewing (and chewing) it, humans could now devote their time, and their metabolic resources, to other purposes, like creating a culture."

Michael Pollan

Twitter feed
Tags
Aleppo pepper Alicante all spice almond anchovy apple apricot Argentina artichokes asparagus aubergine autumn avocado bacon banana Bangkok barbecue basil bay leaf beef beetroot bergamot berry biscuit bistro bloggers blue cheese Bolivia Borough Market bread breadcrumbs British budget budwig diet Buenos Aires buffalo sauce bulgar wheat burrata butter cabbage cafe cake Calais Cantonese capers caramel caraway cardamom carrot cauliflower champagne chard cheddar cheese chicken chickpeas chicory chilli chocolate chorizo Christmas chutney cinnamon clams cloves cobnut cocoa coconut cooking class Copenhagen cordial Córdoba coriander cornflakes Corsica cottage cheese courgette courgette flowers crayfish cream cream cheese creme fraiche cucumber culinary catastrophe cumin currants curry daikon Dalmatia dates delivery dessert dill dips dough Dubrovnik duck Easter easy Edinburgh egg eggplant elderflower falafel fennel festive feta fettuccine ffine bean fflour Filipino filo fine dining Finsbury Park fish fish sauce five spice flour food aid food anthropology food tour French game garlic gastropub gherkin ginger gluten free goat's cheese goat's curd golden syrup green tomatoes greengage Guinness halloumi ham Hanoi harissa hazelnut hibiscus Hoi An hominy honey horseradish humanitarian relief Indian Islington Istanbul Italian jam Japanese juniper Kent ketchup ketjap manis kielbasa kinilaw Korean lamb langoustine leek lemon lemongrass lentils lime linseed llime lobster London loquat Madrid market mascarpone Mayfair Mendoza Mexican mid-range milk mint mirin mixed peel mixed spice monk's beard morcilla mozzarella mushroom mussels mustard mustard seed Nahm Natoora Nepalese New Nordic New Year's Day New Zealand noras nose-to-tail NYC oats olive olive oil onion orange Oxfordshire oxtail paprika Paris Parmesan parsley party pastry peanut pear peas pepper Peru Philippines pickle pine nuts pineapple pistachio pizza plum pomegranate pomegranate molasses pop-ups pork Porto Vecchio potato prawn preserved lemon prosciutto Provence providore prunes Puerto Iguazú pulse pumpkin purple sprouting broccoli quail egg quick radish ragu raisins ramen ras el hanout raspberries red pepper paste red wine refugees restaurant rhubarb ribs rice ricotta rocket rosemary runner bean saffron sage San Sebastian sauces sausage scallops seafood seasonal shallot short and sweet shrimp paste slow-cooked smoked mackerel smoked salmon sorrel souffle soy spaghetti spinach spring squid ssauces St Basil's Day stilton stock street food sugar sumac summer supper club Sydney syrup Tabasco tagliatelle tahini take away tamarind tarragon tart Thai thyme toffee tom yum paste tomato tomato paste tortilla tray bake tuna Turkey veal vegetarian versatile Vietnam Vietnamese vinegar walnut water chestnut white pepper wine wings winter yoghurt yum cha
« Dr Shakshuka | Main | A traditional ragù from Bologna »
Friday
Jun072013

Mayhem

Hello out there. Yes, I’m still alive and well. Thanks for checking on me. Often.

I realise it has been the longest I have ever left between posts and I am noticing an interesting pattern in my traffic statistics – the longer between posts the more often you visit. Not a particularly good incentive to keep posting, but it really is about time.

May has been a busy month. My friend, Ray, arrived from Australia on 5th May for a month, my Mum arrived on the 10th for the summer, the same day my friend Geraldine (the one with strong opinions on bolognese) arrived from France with brother and boyfriend in tow and I had an exam. All lots of fun except the last part.

So if I’m still alive I must have been eating stuff. Yes, lots of it. To get things moving again I thought I’d share some photos of some of the things I have been eating in May.

Yipin

I had been wanting to go to Yipin Hunanese restaurant in Islington for several years and I finally made it at the beginning of May. What took so long? Well, the menu is largely made up of offal so I had a hard time convincing friends to come with me. Then I remembered my friend, Andy, who I hadn’t seen in a while. He used to be game to try new things. Used to. Turns out he wasn’t so keen on offal, but we had a lovely meal there anyway. Here are two of the things we ate:

Mandarin spare ribs

Dry fried green beans

Caravan

The night my Mum arrived we had dinner with some family friends at Caravan. I’m sorry to say it was disappointing. It wasn’t that it was bad, it just wasn’t especially good and it didn’t help that I had heard a lot of good things about it. Some dishes were fabulous, such as these ham croquettes with creamy, mustard mayonnaise:

But others were trying too hard – taking fusion too far with too many confused flavours. For example, these razor clams with fennel, parsley, orange and capers – sounds great right? Yeah, until you add nuoc mam dressing.

Two out of the three mains we ordered were fine, but nothing special. The other, crispy lamb shoulder with braised gem lettuce was delicious, I’ll give them that, but that was mainly because deep fried anything is usually a good idea and I’d never had deep fried lamb shoulder before.

Still, it was lovely evening with great company and copious amounts of wine, but we could’ve done that at home.

Shakshuka

I was anticipating a hangover after Caravan, so I had breakfast ready to go on Saturday morning. I just had to chuck it together in a pan:

Shakshuka is a recent discovery for me. I saw it first on Ottolenghi’s Meditteranean Feasts.  I’d had similar things in the past, for example Eggs in Purgatory, but I’d never had the Israeli version. I have been making it a lot since, both the traditional one that is demonstrated by Dr Shakshuka on the programme and Ottolenghi’s modern, meaty version. 

This was the traditional shakshuka. I’ll post both recipes soon.

The Engineer

Later that day we met my Mum, Geraldine and some friends at The Engineer pub in Primrose Hill. Since Geraldine is likely to read this post and since she is, like me, a pendant, I feel I ought to admit that I am cheating with the photos here. I didn’t actually take my camera to the venue on this occasion. I’ve been several times before (it is in my North London suggestions). These are two photos of things I have eaten on other occasions there:

What I actually had was a starter of crab, apple and avocado followed by a burger with smoky bacon jam and bone marrow. The starter was just what I wanted – light, fresh and delicate – but it wasn’t as good as Geraldine’s cured salmon. I rarely order cured salmon as I am usually disappointed, but I really wished I’d ordered it this time after the little mouthful Geraldine was kind enough to tease me with.

The burger wasn’t so good. The smoky bacon jam sounded really interesting and on its own it was, but along with the bone marrow and a huge beef patty it was overkill on the meat front and I ended up scraping most of it off, which left a bog standard and rather boring burger.

Smoked salmon recipe

The next day, Ray and I were feeling in need of fresh vegetables, so I made a smoked salmon salad with lots of greens, including broccoli, asparagus and edamame, among other things. I’ll post the recipe for this one of these days.

Charlie Chan's, Cambridge

Ray was staying in Cambridge for most of the time she was here, as her PhD supervisor is based there (smarty pants). I have lots of family friends in Cambridge and she was staying with one of them so I went to stay for a weekend.

I can’t go to Cambridge without visiting Charlie Chan’s for dim sum. It is a small menu, but what they do they do very well. They must just get old Granny Chan in for the day shift cause the dim sum is deliciously light and fresh, unlike the rest of the menu. I have probably chosen the worst picture to illustrate this point, but even the fried things are not overly greasy.

Parkholme Supper Club

For an early birthday treat, Ray and her boyfriend, Wade, took me to the Parkholme Supper Club. I thought it would be a nice thing for them to do whilst in London and I hadn’t tried this one before. I liked the fact that it was a small number of guests (14) all sitting round one big table and also that all the proceeds go to MSF. The house was gorgeous – a huge terrace with a lot of care taken on the interior decoration (check out the bathroom if you go).

The food on this evening was done by a guest cook, a Spanish girl whose family are from Morocco. There were lots of lovely mezze to start, followed by chicken, lamb and vegetable tagines and the best baklava I’ve had in London.

Tomyumpkin soup

After a month of mayhem, I needed something simple for tea (not least because of a depleted bank balance) so I made one of my favourite staples, which I like to call Tomyumpkin soup. It’s pumpkin soup with tom yum paste and its amazing. I’ll post the recipe eventually.

PrintView Printer Friendly Version

EmailEmail Article to Friend

Reader Comments (5)

My you have managed to fit a lot in! Not that I can really say I am surprised!
You made be laugh when you wrote "because deep fried anything is usually a good idea"...so true...Chris just did a dinner featuring kale and apple for World Environment Day and for one of the desserts he made mini apple and cinnamon with salted dulce de leche dipping sauce. He said he first baked the donuts, tried one and was pleased but the deep-fryer was in front of him so he chucked one in there...and well...you know how the end of the story goes!! They were amazing!
Please post the Tomyumpkin soup soon - I think you've made it before for me and its absolutely what I want as the weather turns foul down here.
Have you had the breakfast lamb tagine from Kazbah...looks a lot like the one you made. Chris also does a baked eggs with sobrasada, foir de latte, roast capsicum and heirloom tomatoes...yum!
Looking forward to your recipe posts (Tomyumpkin)...not least because I am procrastination queen at the moment! ;P
x

June 8, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterCharlie Brown

DONUTS***

June 8, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterCharlie Brown

Hey Cha - thanks for your comments. I can't wait to try Chris' baked eggs with red gunk! I wanted to try them last time I was in Oz, but they were sold out on the day we went to Baffi and Mos. Glad he has taken them with him to Orto. Re. Shakshuka - yes, I've had the lamb one at Kazbah, it's awesome. When I made Ottolenghi's meat version I swapped beef for lamb, though it ended up tasting a bit like moussaka. Re. Tomyumpkin soup - will try to post soon, but in case you fancy making it before, it's basically just pumpkin soup plus tom yum paste, coconut milk if you fancy it, coriander and fish sauce. That's all! :) x

June 11, 2013 | Registered CommenterVix

I'm so glad I got to participate in so much of this yumness! I have to say I loved the shakshuka, it was so amazing. Can't wait for the recipe either!

June 21, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterRay

I 've been missing One dish Closer! it's been ages since i logged in, largely because I have been travelling so much , and not often having access to wifi, let alone a kitchen. Like Charlie I would love you to post the recipe for TomYumpkin soup sometime soon. I often feel like soup in the middle of the day when I'm hunched over the computer and I know I need lunch - but I don't feel like making anything. I'd like to make up a batch of that in portions that I can defrost and microwave ( or is that sacrilege ???)

July 13, 2013 | Unregistered CommenterMa

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Post:
 
Some HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>